Day 1 - Sunday 24 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Anisa Kanji (Mentor)
One of the mentors, Anisa Kanji, provides us with the first daily account of the trip so far having just arrived in Tehran:
"With us being hours away from reaching the holy city of Qum, you can feel the excitement and anticipation amongst both the students and the mentors on beginning this wonderful journey to Iran. All the preparations have been done, suitcases have been packed and our goodbyes have been said.
Having been blessed to attend two previous summer courses in 2007 and 2008 (one as a participant and another as a mentor) you would think that I would be fully prepared and know exactly what to expect. Yet, one could not be more wrong. Both previous courses have been so different in their own way and I expect this course to be no different. All I know is that this will be one of those ‘extra special’ ziyarats – one where strong friendships will be formed, memories will last forever, and the impact of which will affect the rest of my life, inshAllah.
As we begin on our journey that so many students describe as a ‘once in a lifetime opportunity’ and one ‘that will change your life forever’, we ask you all to pray for us to have a safe journey and that through this trip, we are able to progress on our path towards Allah (SWT). "
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Fatema Ramji (Mentor)
Fellow mentor Fatema Ramji of Hyderi Jamaat, London, comments: “I feel so lucky to be going to such a Holy place and cannot wait to be in the proximity of Bibi Masooma and Imam Reza (as). I’m look forward to the trip having a lasting impact on me and building my spirituality gradually.”
The Madinah and Bab short courses will be jam-packed with ziyarats, meetings with renowned scholars and cultural activities. These will include the ziyarats of Imam Ridha (as) in Mashad and Bibi Masuma-e-Qum (as), a visit to Masjid e Jamkaraan as well as inspirational discussions on various topics.
Over the next 18 days, we will inshAllah be posting daily accounts of our trip and the wonderful experiences we will encounter. Please follow our journey.
Day 2 - Monday 25 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Fatima Siraj, Karachi
Today, being the first day of classes was a very eventful day but what I found most interesting was the twilight session conducted by Sister Salma Khalfan. As the sky slowly turned a lovely shade of red and yellow during sunrise, we reflected on a Quranic verse regarding the signs of Allah (swt). It was a beautiful moment of heartfelt reflection at the haram of Lady Masuma (as) and it was an uplifting experience unlike any other I had ever experienced.
Its only been two days and I already feel like this is going to be the best trip of my life.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Farhana Sohawan, Toronto
We woke up at 3:15am and at 3:45am we took a bus to the haram of Bibi Masooma e Qum. We prayed Fajr salat and following that we perfromed our Ziyarat at the haram. Following that, we had a lecture by sister Salma Khalfan which enlightened us and uplifted us spiritually. We were finished at the haram and we came back to our dormitories and had a delicious breakfast.
Whilst the Madinah al Ilm students were having classes, we waited for the CoEJ girls to arrive from Europe. After their arrival we had a brief introduction meeting. I waited eagerly for my class to start which was with Sister Najia. She did an amazing job of teaching the dangers and flaws of Wahhabism to us and I enjoyed her class the most. I cannot wait for the excitement of visiting Imam Reza’s roza and the other holy places we will soon visit.
Day 3 – Tuesday 26 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Aisha Mohamed Mussa, Tanzania
It was the second day of our short summer course to Iran and we began our day with namaz and the ziyarat of Bibi Masuma e Qum (as). It is difficult to describe how one feels when one visits the haram but the peace and serenity of the mosque was one of the feelings that I will never forget.
With this being my first visit to Iran, being close to Bibi Masuma (as) has given me a feeling of spiritual upliftment and comfort.
A twilight session with sister Salma Khalfan was then held at the haram and in preparation for our visit to Masjid e Jamkaran in the evening. Sister Salma talked about how to know whether or not an individual is on the right path and how to best prepare for the coming of our 12th Imam (ajfs).
Fatema Ramji, a mentor from Hyderi Jamaat, London comments:
'Staying awake after fajr is the best time to reflect on yourself spiritually and how to actively prepare ourselves for the coming of the 12th Imam (ajfs). I now realise that I have so much strength in myself to become a better person.'
Later that day, our group were fortunate enough to visit Ayatullah Mujtaba Musawi Lari. He mentioned many different points during our short meeting with him, however he emphasised on the importance of spreading Islam through propagation. He also gave us all one book as a gift from him. He has alhamdullilah written many books and it was very hard to choose just one!
Later that evening, we visited Masjid e Jamkaran for Dua e Tawassul. It was by far the highlight of our day and was such an amazing experience to be part of, especially with the congregational prayers and the recitation of Dua e Tawassul.
Tayyaba Merali of Peterborough Jamaat comments:
‘It was a pleasure going to the 12th Imam's mosque, we had an inspirational talk by Brother Asim which changed the atmosphere into something that was more emotional and I personally could feel the presence of Imam e Zamana (ajfs) especially during the recitation of Dua e Tawassul.’
We are only on Day 2 and we know that every day in the city of Qum is full of blessings for us and we are all honoured to be invited here to this Holy City.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Zainab Alimohammed, Dar es Salaam
Today early in the morning, we once again went to the Haram for Fajr prayers. The feeling of awe of meeting Bibi Masooma (as) once again washed over us and after Fajr salaat we proceeded to give our salaams to Lady Masooma. Tears flowed down our faces as we repented for our sins and asked our hajaat, but most importantly our hearts wrenched as we remembered how Lady Masooma didn’t manage to meet her brother.
After reciting a few duas, we went to our second twilight session with Sister Salma Khalfan in the Haram. Our topic for the day was Imam Mahdi (ATFS) as an introduction and preparation for our visit to Masjid Jamkaran in the evening. It was amazing reflecting and pondering on ayats from Dua Nudba, Ziyarat Ashura and Dua Ahad as the sun rose above us.
After the session we were truly refreshed as we returned to the Jamiah for breakfast and lessons. Sister Najia shared with us important facts about Wahabism and made us realise using our intellect to make decisions is very important. Sister Bahrieh Shomali talked about what we would truly achieve if we mourned for Imam Hussain (as).
Sister Tayyaba Merali (Peterborough Jamaat, UK) said: ‘The lessons today were incredible and were a perfect start to our spiritual journey that awaits us.’
In the evening we proceeded to Masjid Jamkaran for salaat and Dua Tawassul, which was a very uplifting experience and everyone present shared one desire; to meet our living Imam (ATFS). However, we felt so unfortunate knowing our sins were placing a veil over our eyes and prevented us from seeing the beauty of the truth.
We ate our last meal of the day at Jamkaran and returned to the Jamiah. Completely exhausted and worn out after a long day, we all still eagerly await what the next day has in store for us.
Day 4 – Wednesday 27 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Sukaina Jaffer, Toronto
The day began with a visit to the Haram of Lady Masuma (as) in Qum. With the visit last night to the Masjid e Jamkaran of Imam e Zamana (as) being the foremost in our memories this morning, a group of us decided to pray Dua e Ahad. It is narrated that if one recites this dua every morning for 40 days, he/she will surely be among the companions of the Imam and will serve him even if death should partake him.
I thought about the ways in which I could work on hastening his reappearance. There is so much chaos and pain in the world, if I could abate it but a little, I would die happy.
Before long, we departed for Mount Khizr in the twilight. Sometimes reciting Ayatul Kursi for safety, sometimes reciting dhikr and somtimes pondering over the meaning of life. This mountain reminded me of Mount Hira and the words by Dawud Wharnsby Ali: ‘Madinatun Nabi’. The city of the Prophet (saw) is like home to me echoed in my mind. We gathered together tired but jovial at the top of the mountain and watched the dawn of the new day; a new beginning. A new chance for each of us to make a mark in the world.
After our lectures, the day ended with a beautiful recitation of the Quran and Qaseedas; a chance to reflect upon the beautiful verses of the book and the amazing religion of Islam. I felt at peace when I heard the verse of Surah Fath which iterated that ‘latad khulannal masjid al haraama inshAllah amineen’. I would recite this verse often at home and it felt as it my visit of Lady Fatima Masuma (as) was also embellished by a visit to Prophet Muhammed (as) and the Ahlul Bayt. I was elated. It was just another exciting day in the spiritual journey towards solution in the Holy City of Qum.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Ayman Hasham, Mombasa
As usual we woke up very early and got ready for Fajr salaat at Bibi Masooma’s Haram. Being awake so early and in such a holy place made me feel spiritually motivated.
After finishing our salaat we climbed Mount Khizr, which was hard work but the scenery made it all worthwhile and reaching the top was a big achievement! We watched the sunrise, which was absolutely beautiful and the twilight session about ‘Love for Allah (swt)’ gave me the motivation to carry on building my relationship with Him.
We returned to the Jamiah for our daily classes and covered the topics of ‘How to achieve mourning of Imam Hussain (as)’ and ‘Dangers of Wahhabism’. Sister Najia gave us an insight into the Wahhabi beliefs, which was very informative and it gave me a certainty of my own beliefs.
In the evening we visited the Ansariyan book store and choosing particular books was a tough decision as they all interested me but finally I decided on books to do with repentance and Hadith-ul-Qudsi.
Sister Sara Govani of Peterborough Jamaat, UK, says:
‘Walking into Ansariyan, I had no expectations of which books I wanted. However, by the end of our time there I had bought so many books and I am looking forward to indulging into the endless knowledge they have to give me.’
We prayed our evening salaat at Bayt-un-Noor and being in the surroundings of where our Bibi spent her last day; it filled me with sadness that she was all alone longing only to see her brother.
After a delicious dinner we rested but anticipated the eventful following day. I cannot wait to experience the serenity of Dua Kumail at the Haram tomorrow evening and eagerly await our visit to Mashhad.
Day 5 – Thursday 28 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Um e Laila Mazhar, Stuttgart, & Sister Fatima Zahra Siraj, Karachi
It is already Day 5 of the course and it was yet another jam packed day in the city of Qum. The morning involved a lecture on Islam and Politics and was followed by a meeting with Ayatullah Saeedi, who is the representative of Ayatullah Khameini. We discussed issues that were affecting the youths in the West as well as ways in which the maraje and the Islamic Republic of Iran could help with such issues. It was great to have such an opportunity and many issues, such as hijab and interaction with the opposite gender, were discussed.
After a wonderful lunch at the haram of Bibi Masuma (as), which was an invitation by the noble lady herself, and a visit to the graves of the Ulema, for example Ayatullah Behjat, we had an enlightening lecture by Shaykh Usama Abdul Ghani. Sheikh Usama touched on many points including the main purpose of marriage which is sukoon (sanctuary) and how to be a merciful and forgiving partner. He also said that if we want change in a relationship, both partners have to be willing to compromise.
A continuation of the morning's lecture on Islam and Politics then took place. Using interesting examples from Hollywood movies, the scholar demonstrated to us how subtle and subliminal messages are incorporated into the entertainment industry. Some of the evidence in the form of movie sequences was truly mind boggling and a huge eye opener for all of us.
Sister Khadija Athman from Kenya thought: ‘Us youths had no idea of how slowly the subtle and subliminal messages are being passed to us through the entertainment industry. It is time we view these things in a critical way.'
The lecturer encouraged us to carefully analyse the gist of the movie (by searching for these subtle messages). Even though we had lectures from 3.30pm to 8.30pm, we did not notice how fast time went by due to the topics discussed being so interesting and allowing us to think in a different way!
We then went to the haram for Dua e Kumayl and although by the end of it, we were quite exhausted, we could not wait for the surprise we were told was going to be given to us. It was around 11pm when our bus stopped outside Al Bayk - a colourful fast food restaurant that was bursting with life. It was a wonderful treat for the little kids inside all of us and we headed home with our tummies full, sticks of cotton candy in our hands and huge smiles on our faces.
As our time in Qum comes close to an end, we cannot wait to finally reach Mashhad and meet our beloved 8th Imam (as).
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Malikah Alidina, Bujumbura
The 5th day of the camp arrived and it seems as though time is flying!! It feels like yesterday we were boarding our planes from our home countries, all excited to visit Bibi Masooma-e-Qum and Imam Reza (as).
We started off the day by talking about how we could live in iran and complete Islamic Studies – the most amazing fact was, is that its free! We then went into a big lecture hall, with both Bab and Madina girls and had a fasinating lecture on Zionism and Satanic symbols in the West. The maulana was so cool – he highlighted movies and paused it at various points to talk about the symbolism. It was amazing to see how messages are put in films so that we are completely ignorant to them!
Before our Zohr prayer we went to visit a great Ayatollah whose name was Ayatollah Saeedi. He is the representative of Ayatollah Khamenai and leads the Jumah prayers within Bibi Masooma’s Haram. It felt like being in the presence of loyalty when everyone stood up at his entrance!
After salaat we were privileged to be guests of Bibi Masooma and were served rice with spinach, meat and beans curry with yoghurt, it was absolutly delicious. We ended the day with reciation of Dua Kumail in the Haram courtyard and then were treated to dinnerb at Al Baik resteraunt. It was so big with an arcade and piles of candyfloss. After a long day we sat down to a well deserved dinner of a huge chicken burger and chips each.
I cannot believe that we are leaving this beautiful city tomorrow and moving to another one as equally special!
Day 6 – Friday 29 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Fatema Jeraj, Stanmore
It was bright and sunny as always when we woke up this morning, and we prayed Fajr salaat at Jamiat-uz-Zahra earlier in the day. One thing I’m going to miss about Jamiah is waking up together with the other girls and rushing for salaat and praying together. We then had a delicious breakfast together which consisted of a variety of foods ranging from cereals to naan and nutella.
At around eleven in the morning we left for shopping which was close to the Haram of Bibi Masuma (as). Bargaining with Iranians is definitely the funniest thing I’ve done on this trip so far; satisfied with whatever we had purchased, we left for the Haram for Juma prayers. Looking around the Haram left me with a touch of sadness and longing to remain there for a few more days. I remember when I visited the Haram for the first time it was the most amazing feeling in the world. However we were new to the place and it took a little time to adjust, but as the days went by and the more we visited, it just felt like home. It felt like we’d been there forever. Just thinking about not seeing Haram again, fills me with great sadness. After we recited Ziyarat-e-Wida we headed back to Jamiah for the last time to say our final goodbyes and do our last minute packing.
We then headed towards the train station to depart for Mashhad. The brothers kindly helped us with our luggage onto the train. As we made ourselves comfortable you could hear exclaims of delight as some amongst us had never been on a train before in Iran. I am now writing this as I sit comfortably on the top bunk bed of the cabin as we leave Qum and are heading towards Mashhad. I can only hope that I am once again privileged to return to Bibi Masuma-e-Qum (as).
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Tayyaba Merali, Peterborough, & Sister Sara Govani, Peterborough
Waking up early in the morning for Subu namaaz with the beautiful sound of the adhaan on our last day at Jamiat-uz-Zahra in Qum, we rushed outside pulling on our chadors, sprinting towards the masjid blending in with the other fully dressed Iranians.
As it was our last day, we had endless packing to do, go for our last Ziyarat and also pray Jumah namaaz at the Haram, which till now has been the most emotional time in Iran since we had just found the connection with our Bibi in our hearts and didn’t want to leave her knowing she has such a high status. Our experience in Qum was overwhelming and empowering, giving us the first hope of a new beginning…
Sis Fatima Alimohammed (East Africa) says: ‘As much as we will miss the unity built within the Jamiah, we will not forget the love we had for the cockroaches(!).’
We gave our farewells and headed towards the station ready for a tiring 13 hour journey towards Mashhad, however it’s all worth it as it is a step closer to Imam Reza (as), which is going to be the highlight of our journey.
Day 7 – Saturday 30 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Syeda Asiya Batool Abedi, Chicago
It was with a heavy heart that we left Qum and performed our final ziyarat of Bibi Masuma – e- Qum on Friday. However, we knew we were on our way to visit Imam Ridha (as) and I can say on behalf of all the girls that we could not wait to reach Mashhad on Saturday evening.
After a long train journey from Qum, the train finally arrived at Nishapour at around 9.30am on Saturday morning. We were all very tired but at the same time, we could not wait for the fun day ahead in Nishapour. We went directly to Bibi Shateeta’s grave and we talked about her high status in the eyes of Imam Musa Kadhim (as). It was an honour to visit the grave of such a pious person and we then had a delicious breakfast with bread, fruit and amazing Iranian tea.
The grave of Imam Zadeh Rahim Mahrookh was our next visit in Nishapour; he was the grandson of Imam Zainul Abedeen (as). We then prayed namaz at this mosque and had a delicious lunch before proceeding to the site of the footprint of the 8th Imam (as). It was such a beautiful sight to see the actual footprint of the 8th Imam (as) and to know that he had visited the place where we were standing. This site was full of many pilgrims and we also went down to the well where a miracle occurred in which the Imam (as) found water. This stream of water is still running and as soon as I touched the water, I felt so calm and at peace.
We then made our way to Mashhad and at around 10.30pm, we went to the haram of Imam Ridha (as). As soon as I saw the haram, my heart was at ease, my eyes were wide open and I was overwhelmed at meeting the Imam (as) for the very first time. I was in awe at the place I was at and I felt so honoured and lucky to be invited by the Imam (as) and Bibi Masuma (as).
Tanweer Areef Amirali of Barundi Jamaat also visited the shrine of Imam Ridha (as) for the very first time. She comments: ‘When I first saw the haram, I could see in front of me a piece of heaven on earth. It was one of the most beautiful places I have ever seen. I felt so enlightened and I can’t wait for the month of Ramadhan to come. During this month, I want to improve my spiritual self and get closer to Allah (swt) and the Ahlul bayt (as) as well.’
Bab al-Ilm
After an extremely long journey on the train from Qum to Mashhad, we arrived at Neshapur at 10:30am. All of us were still recovering from a 16 hour journey! It was beautiful watching the sun set whilst we were on the train. Our first stop was visiting the shrine of Bibi Shatita (AS), and it was interesting to learn about pious ladies who were related directly to the Ahlulbayt (AS). After completing the Ziyarah of the Holy Shrine (AS) we then headed upstairs to the hall above the Masjid to have breakfast. We ate lots of watermelon, and naan that was covered in butter and jam.
After breakfast we headed out to see the shrine of the 4th Imam (AS) son whose body was burnt as he wanted revenge on Karbala. It is quite emotional to think that the Ahlulbayt (AS) went through such tragedies and sacrifices for the sake of Islam. It made me realise there were so many more people involved in Karbala – more than I originally thought.
We prayed afternoon prayers there and had lunch too. Lunch was the traditional chicken kebab and rice, which we ate hungrily because we hadn’t eaten since the night before! Soon after, some of the sisters spotted an ice cream shop next door so they stocked up on different flavours, including saffron which is the most popular. The bus then drove us to the highlight of Neshapur – the 8th Imam’s footprint! That was amazing to see. Sister Batool Arastu told us the story of how the 8th Imam kicked his heel into the ground, and water shot out from underneath. That well is still running there today so we were all excited to go down to the well and fill our water bottles up. I splashed some on my face and it felt so cool and refreshing. When I tasted the water it really was like water from jannah!
We then decided that everyone was extremely tired so we went back on the coach, and we started to make our way back to Mashhad. We all checked into our rooms (we were delighted at how nice they were!) and we went for our first Ziyaraat. I kept my first three wishes in my mind as we saw the Imam (AS) dome. I felt overwhelmed and so lucky to be a guest for Imam Reza (AS).
Day 8 – Sunday 31 July
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Fatema Alimohamed, Dar es Salaam, & Sister Tanveer Amirali, Bujumbura
We feel so blessed to be waking up in the beautiful city of Mashhad. Our day began with fajr namaz in jamaat in a namaz room near our apartments. It can often be difficult to wake up for fajr namaz when one has slept so late and yet following the most uplifting ziyarat we could ever imagine, it was so easy for us to get up and go pray.
We were extremely tired following a long day on Saturday and most of us slept straight through the morning up until zuhr time at about midday. Namaz was then prayed and we then had a session of getting to know each other better. It was a lot of fun and we found out many interesting facts about each other. Over the last week, we have got to know each other so well, that they are not just our friends, but have now become our sisters.
Many of us then had lunch together and laughter filled the air until around 3pm, when some of us had decided to go rest and catch up on much needed sleep!
Our lessons then started at 5pm and we had a thought provoking and inspirational lecture on theology and philosophy. Discussions around the existence of God and why we do certain things allowed us to question certain practices and understand the reasoning behind why such things are done.
Zahra Remtulla says: ‘The series entitled Modern Theology discusses the concept of rationalism combined with religion. The topic was very interesting and I look forward to the rest of the series.’
The session by Sister Batool Arustu on the philosophy of namaz then prepared us for our maghribain prayers immediately afterwards. We can often lose concentration in namaz or not fully understand why we do certain things, but this session allowed us to gain a better understanding which will inshAllah help us increase our concentration in namaz.
Sessions on the tafseer of Surah Nur and on the life of Imam Ridha (as) were then held and we thoroughly enjoyed both sessions. The lesson on Imam Ridha (as)’s life was interactive and kept us interested for the whole hour. We can’t wait for the next lesson on Monday! Its so important to have a good understanding of our Imam (as) especially as we go to the haram every evening for ziyarat and we cannot wait to find out more about his life inshAllah.
We then went to visit the haram and we recited Ziyarat e Jamia Kabeera together. None of us could stop the tears that flowed as emotion filled the voices of the two brothers who led us through the ziyarat.
The month of Ramadhan is fast approaching and we cannot wait to spend the first few days in this blessed month in this Holy City.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Tasneem Moloo, Mombasa
It was already the second day in which we were privileged to be the guests of Imam Ali Reza (as) in the holy city of Mashhad.
The sanctity and peace that penetrated to every inch of the city was now gracefully making its way into each and every one of our hearts too.
The prayer sessions for the day were held at the Namaaz Khana and we all prayed in congregation which gave a further sense of unity. The classes for the day began later in the evening for both Madinatul-ilm and Baab-ul-ilm. The topics varied from tafseer to debates and so did the atmosphere within each class with varied teachers.
The study of Sahifa-e-Sajjadiya was taught to us by Sister Zainab Arastu and she informed us about why duas may not be answered. Philosophy of Salaat and Tafseer of Sura Noor was taught at different times also by Sister Batul Arastu and she explained that niyyat and concentration is extremely important as salaat is a direct communication between oneself and Allah (swt). The last class was taught by Brother Ali Hemani and he informed us about the differences between imamate and caliphate as an introduction to the topic of Imam Reza (as).
Sister Zainab Arastu narrated an important quote by Imam Ali (as) that ‘Supplication is a key to mercy and a lantern in the darkness.’ This beautiful statement acted as a sense of hope into the heart as the month of Rahmah and reformation was only a few hours away, and we felt blessed as an entirely new experience in life would be created for each of us to remember and cherish forever.
Day 9 – Monday 1 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Zahra Remtulla, Birmingham
Today was the day of Yawm e shak, the day when we anxiously await for the news as to whether it is the first day of the Holy month of Ramadhan or not. Although it turned out to be the last day of Sha’ban, the majority of us fasted for the first time in Mashhad.
Zainab Alimohamed from Dar-es-Salaam Jamaat comments:
‘Although this was the longest fast I have ever kept (16 hours), it was definitely the most spiritual experience as it was in the Holy City of Mashhad.’
There was some nostalgic experiences by some of us as we sat together and ate sehri and iftaar. Each one of us is missing our own delicacies from back home.
Maleeka Alidina says:
‘I’m really missing having fried samosas when breaking my fast!’
Although we all missed our favourite dishes, we replaced our own delicacies with a new experience of Iranian food and culture.
After a day of lessons and rest, we headed off to Imam Ridha (as)’s haram (my favourite part of the day!). One place that really stood out to me in the vast haram of Imam Ridha (as) was a place called Panjareye Foolad, literally translated as ‘the window made of iron’. It was here where people in need of shafa would sit and sleep. They would attach themselves by string to the shrine of Imam Ridha (as) and would also Allah (swt) through Imam Ridha (as) to cure them. Many of them stay there day and night until their prayers are answered. Seeing this place brought a lot of emotions, overlooking 30-40 people seeking shafa’at from Allah (swt) through Imam Ridha (as).
We finished up our day with our first yoga class led by Sister Sakina Abbas and Sister Fatima Khimji. Although there was some initial pain when stretching, it felt relaxing at the same time to ensure a subsequent peaceful sleep.
Furthermore, I look forward to continuing our various lecture series, particularly on Modern Philosophy/Theology as well as spending nights in devotion in the Holy month of Ramadhan in Imam Ridha (as)’s haram.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Ayman Hasham, Mombasa
Today we were blessed enough to experience out first fast in the city of Mashhad, which was 18 hours long compared to the 8 hour fasts back home! The beginning of the day felt like the end of the day as we had ate sehri in the early hours of the morning and prayed Fajr salaat in congregation, which gave me a sense of peace and tranquility.
Our day started properly at 11.30am when we woke to go the classes. The first class concentrated on Sahifa-e-Sajjadiya and was conducted by Sister Zainab Arastu. Imam Ali (as) has said that “Dua is a key to mercy and a lantern to darkness” and Sis Zainab explained the importance of Sahifa-e-Sajjadiya being one of the biggest treasures Shias possess and is compiled of various duas which Imam Zainab Abideen has provided for us to get closer to Allah (swt) and build up our spiritual connection to the Ahlul Bayt.
Our next lesson by Sister Batul Arastu concentrated on Hijab and highlighted the different categories. It was extremely inspirational, as was our other lesson by Brother Ali Hemani who spoke about the life of Imam Reza (as) as it showed us how the Imam struggled politically and how history repeats itself.
Finally the time for iftar arrived and we were thankful that the fast had come to an end, but surprisingly we all found it easier than expected. However without a doubt the highlight of our day was visiting the Haram of Imam Reza (as) in the early hours of the morning. We recited Ziyarat Jamiah Kabeer together and the feeling of awe being sat within the serene atmosphere of the courtyard affected us all emotionally. Returning from the Haram, our day started again with Sahri and after Fajr we fell asleep to the sound of the birds tweeting outside our apartments…
Day 10 – Tuesday 2 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Fatima Sohawan, Toronto
Today was the official start to the most blessed of all months: Mahe Ramadhan. It was also the first Dua e Tawassul the group held in Mashhad, within the beloved shrine of our 8th Imam (as). After fajr time, we all got to rest up until zohr namaz after which we went to our class on the philosophy of Islam. Today we learnt about the beautiful concept of having belief based entirely on the love of Allah (swt). Alhamdullilah, it was a very enlightening concept where a believer can attain this very spiritual stage after understanding the infinite amount of love Allah (swt) has for his creation. With a love and mercy like no other, a believer receives the duties of Allah (swt) as an invitation to be closer to Allah (swt).
With this philosophy, the tasks and wajibaats are no longer performed due to obligation, but the mere fact that Allah (swt) is surely worthy of all duties and praise a thousand times over. Our next class focused on the topic of hijab, a very needed and necessary concept to lead a life of Islamic values.
Following class, we were given the opportunity to go shopping. It was a great experience and in those few moments, we all learned exactly what it felt like to be in a country where the people did not understand you, and the difficulty it took to express simple thoughts like asking for the price or bargaining. We also had to be careful not to get ripped off, but of course being foreign that tends to happen!
Nearing the end of the day, we drove to a beautiful park with an amazing view of this waterfall that immediately cooled everybody down in the scorching heat of Mashhad. It was a time for bonding, pictures and reminiscing of our first day of the month of Ramadhan. Praying under the beginning of the sunset sky was amazing. It was a different feeling, you were talking to your creator whilst surrounded by his magnificent creations that bless the earth, especially the deep pink sky that slowly turned into the night.
We had iftaar and dinner under a blanket of stars. We then had a couple of lessons on the tafseer of Surah Noor and the life of Imam Ridha (as). The remainder of the night into the early hours was spent at the haram, a place where we always felt at peace and tranquillity no matter how tired or sleep deprived we all are. It is that moment which makes the entire day worth every moment. Altogether we supplicated the beautiful words of Dua e Tawassul, Dua e Iftitah and Ziyarat e Ameenullah, in unison. This was also the time we pondered over what to converse with our beloved 8th Imam (as). The hours always feel like minutes when talking to the Imam (as), knowing that he is listening and responding to all of us. InshAllah, may Allah (swt) give us the power of spirituality and softness of hearts, especially during this month of blessings to be able to one day hear the salaams and replies of our Imam, Imam Ridha (as).
Bab al-Ilm
Malika Alidina, Bujumbura
The morning started amazingly with Sahri in the early hours followed by Fajr prayed in Jamaat. Being fully rested after a long sleep we awoke for our daily classes in which we covered the tafseer of Dua Makarimul Akhlaaq with Sister Zainab Arastu and completed the topic of Hijab with Sister Batool Arastu.
We had a break in our day from 2-5pm in which we were surprised to being able to go shopping at the Al-Maas shopping centre in the heart of Mashhad. I was quite surprised that Iran had such a spectacular shopping centre which reminded me of the ones back home. We all enjoyed the experience and treated ourselves to various gifts as this was our first official shopping trip. Although in one way it was really hard, seeing all the food in the shops and we were fasting!!
We were treated to yet another surprise when we left Al-Maas, as we were taken to a beautiful park with amazing waterfalls where we prayed our evening salaat and ate iftar altogether. The feeling of eating altogether was nice because since Qum we hadn’t had many meals as a whole group due to the separation into smaller rooms.
Returning from the park, we carried on with 2 more lessons for the day in which we covered the tafseer of Sura Noor and proceeded with the life story of Imam Reza (as). Classes ended at midnight and we all made our way to Imam Reza’s shrine where we altogether recited Dua Tawassul. Reciting altogether added to the effect of how lucky we are to be in Mashhad for Ramadhan and it being a Tuesday night.
Sister Sabiha Nazarali said, “It was a spectacular and life-changing experience hearing Dua Tawassul being recited in front of the 8th Imam’s Shrine and I look forward to reliving the experience in the future with my family.”
After a long day we headed back to the apartments for Sahri, and we eagerly awaited what other surprises were in store for the next day.
Day 11 – Wednesday 3 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Khadija Uthman, Kenya
We have now been in Mashhad for a few days, and we still feel very lucky to be here. Mashhad is a city that is full of peace and serenity and we are all enjoying our time here.
We have various lessons during the day which we are finding extremely beneficial. In the morning, sister Najia enlightened us on the three levels of belief that are based on love for Allah (swt). These lectures allow us to think and leave us with a lot to ponder on. We now understand that a person can reach the highest level of belief whereby we do our worship acts because of our strong love for our creator and not just to expect anything back.
Everyone always says that a woman can never shop enough and that was exactly true today! We were given yet another opportunity to go shopping and this time we went to Bazaar e Ridha. Many used this as an opportunity to find gifts for loved ones, walk around and explore the bazaar as well as trying out their newly found bargaining skills! So much so that one girl even got a shop keeper to agree a price by pretending to cry!
Dua e Iftitah was then recited that evening at the venue at which we are all staying after which we got another invitation by the Imam to visit his holy shrine. We sat as a group and recited Ziyarat e Ale Yaseen as well as visiting the zari of the Imam (as). We feel at home every time we visit the haram and we thank Allah (swt) for such a noble opportunity. Every day in Mashhad is full of bounties and we enjoy every minute here.
Anisa Kanji of Stanmore Jamaat, London who is a mentor on the course comments:
‘We have already been in Iran for nearly two weeks and our time here has flown by. We have visited so many places, met so many different scholars as well as learnt about various Islamic topics that will be of benefit to us when we go back home next week inshAllah. With just over a week left before we return home, we are inshAllah hoping to make the most of the last week we have here and to build that strong connection with our Imam (as).’
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Sherbanu Moloo - Mombasa
Our day started as usual at 11.30am waking up for Zohr salaat and thereafter making our way to classes. We covered a variety of topics which I have a lot of interest in and am very enthusiastic about. I enjoy the class about Imam Reza (as) the most as it is not only very informative but also has an aspect of enjoyment to it.
We all looked forward to the early evening as we were all anticipating going shopping at the all famous Reza Bazaar near the Haram. Everyone’s excitement doubled when we reached and saw how big it was and how many people were shopping inside.
Classes and shopping really did tire us out and we couldn’t wait to get back to the apartments. Alhamdulillah we had the most popular Iranian dish for iftar – rice and chicken! Following this we enjoyed the beautiful recitation of Dua Iftetah which gave each and every one of us a sense of spiritual upliftment and really did bring the atmosphere of Ramadhan into all of our hearts.
Sister Zainab Alimohammed (Dsm, Tanzania) said: “Dua Iftetah was a real spiritual elevation which left us in tears as we were once again reminded of the severity of our sins but gave us hope of Allah (swt) mercy.”
Regardless of tiredness we continued with classes before making our way to the Haram of Imam Reza (as). The sense of peace I got just sitting in the courtyard reciting duas was magnificent and no one wanted to leave.
Time has flown so fast and the thought of being back home next week is scary! Coming to Iran has been amazing and knowing we have to leave the Imam, unsure of whether we will return bring my mood down slightly. However, I have been blessed to be called to Mashhad and will never forget the experience.
Day 12 – Thursday 4 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Fatema Alimohamed, Dar es Salaam
Today the timetable had been changed in order to accommodate Dua e Kumayl in the haram in the evening. After Salaatul Fajr, we all slept until around 11am. After half an hour, we were all sitting in our first class of the day with Najiya bai on modern theology, which turned out to be epic. None of us could stop the tears that flowed from our eyes as she emotionally related part of the tragedy of Karbala.
Immediately after that we had zohrain prayers followed by Ahkam with sister Batul Arastu.
Sister Fatema Jeraj of Stanmore jamaat, comments: ‘The lecture was very helpful and it answered a lot of our everyday questions. She elaborated all the rules very well.’
After a break of around an hour, tafseer of suratun noor followed. We had a great time learning the different reasons and meanings behind revelations. Next was the life history of Imam Ridha (as) with Sheikh Ali Hemani. This was fun since in the first part of the lesson, we played a game, that had an interactive element, and in the later part we watched a clip on Imam Ridha (as).
At around 7.15pm, we proceeded to the haram of the holy Imam (as). After prayers, we had iftaar of noodles with minced meat right outside the haram. The food was amazing and the environment reminded me of home, as laughter and excitement filled the air.
Back to the haram, we recited Ziyarat e Ashura, Ziyarate e Warith and the Ziyarat of Imam Ridha (as), with our whole group in congregation. At around 10.30pm, everybody went to a place of their own choice for Dua e Kumayl. The atmosphere was that of fear and hope, fear of our sins and hope in the mercy and forgiveness of Allah (swt). Remorse filled my heart and tears flowed from everyone’s eyes. It was indeed an unforgettable experience, as people cried out in unison, ‘dhalamtu nafsi’.
After Dua, we paid our last respects for the day to the holy Imam (as) and returned to our residence. Sehri was punctuated with feelings of renewal and there was a definite realisation of a second chance to be a better Muslim.
I am sure none of us can wait until tomorrow’s unique experience of salaatul Jum’ah in the blessed presence of Imam Ridha (as), inshAllah.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Zainab Alimohamed, Dar es Salaam
The routine since Qum has been completely different especially since its Ramadhan. We sleep after Fajr salaat and awake for our daily classes and activities in time for Zohr salaat. Our classes proceeded after salaat and we covered the tafseer of Dua Makarimul Akhlaaq and Ahkaam which proved very beneficial. Our final lecture of the day was led by Brother Ali Hemani, which I enjoyed thoroughly as it was not only very informative about our Imam but also so much fun as he made it very interactive.
We all looked forward to the night ahead of us and after Maghrib salaat we sat just outside of the haram and ate a delicious iftar of noodles and mincemeat which made a nice change from rice and chicken!! We proceeded back to the Haram to recite Ziyarat Ashura, Ziyarat Waritha and Ziyarat of Imam Reza together followed by nauhas which brought tears to all of our eyes remembering Karbala. However the most awaited aspect of the night stole the whole experience and that was Dua Kumail. Seeing so many people gathered in all the courtyards to recite the dua together was inspirational and sitting under the open sky in the presence of Imam Reza (as) asking for forgiveness was beautiful and a definite highlight of our spiritual journey.
Sister Sukaina Jaffer (of Toronto) said: “Reciting Dua Kumail under the blanket of stars and the moon was a magnificent moment that allowed us to ponder on and appreciate the glory of Allah (swt).”
We were fortunate enough to have with us a tour guide and we had a tour of whole Haram, visiting the graves of renowned scholars such as Sheikh Bahai, Ayatollah Isfehani, Sheikh Hur-e-Amali and visited the great Gouharshad mosque.
Retuning back to our accommodation we did not want to leave the serene atmosphere in the Haram, however we were all tired. We eagerly anticipated Salaatul Jumah and the other exciting programs organised for us. I cannot believe that in one week we will all be departing for our hometowns as we have all built such meaningful friendships.
Day 13 – Friday 5 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Fatima Zahra Siraj, Karachi
Friday, being the best day of the week in Islam, holds special importance for us. This significance became manifold when we got to offer Namaaz-e-Juma at the haram of Imam Ridha (as). When we arrived at the Masjid, where Friday prayers are held, we were given a warm welcome by the Khadims or the ‘duster people’ as we call them. It was a beautiful experience in the cool and refreshing environment of the mosque and it ended with hugs, handshakes and smiles all around. The locals eagerly shook our hands. Such is the amazing respect the guests of our Imam (as) are treated with.
When we arrived at our accommodation, we were given a lecture on child upbringing by Sheikh Khalfan, a renowned scholar. We learned a lot about a phenomenon that we thought was only related to mothers. However, after this session, we understood the importance of how child upbringing begins way earlier than when a child is born.
Anisa Kanji, a mentor on the course from Stanmore, London comments: ‘We are all excited to have Sheikh Khalfan with us for our last few days in Mashhad. The lecture on child upbringing was eye opening and alhamdullilah, extremely insightful. We can’t wait for the next session with him which will inshAllah be a sisters-only general question and answer session.’
After attending our regular post-maghribain classes, we headed towards our rooms on an unusual high.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Sabiha Nazerali, Mombasa
After experiencing the amazing atmosphere of Juma Namaaz at Bibi Masooma’s Haram while we were in Qum, we had all been eagerly anticipating the Friday prayers at the Roza of Imam Reza (as). Although we didn’t understand the khutba, just sitting and reflecting on our time we’d had in Mashhad and what we wanted to achieve in the last few days was still as beneficial. When Jumah Namaz had finished, the atmosphere of togetherness and everyone going to do Ziyarat was out of this world.
After doing our ziyarat and sitting for a while, we made our way back to the accommodation where we were given a lecture by Sheikh Khalfan. Although it was about child upbringing, it was beneficial for everyone as we learnt child upbringing begins at different stages very early in our own lives.
Our mentor, sister Fatima Khimji of Hyderi Jamaat, said: “Even as a mentor, I found this lecture so inspirational and would definitely recommend the topic as one for discussion between all ages.”
Our evening was the same as usual: iftar was delicious and our evening classes were very educational whilst also being very entertaining.
Day 14 – Saturday 6 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Fatema Jeraj, Stanmore
Today we woke up and had our afternoon classes as usual. The one thing I am going to miss is the jamaat prayers here in Mashhad. At around 4.30pm, we headed over to the haram where we had a talk from the head of International Affairs. We then made our way to the museum in the haram. There we saw many things such as the previous zarees, sea life, some breathtaking paintings, old coins and many notes etc. My favourite would have to be the fish that was dubbed ‘the mummy of satan’.
Soon it was namaz time, or should I say ‘Iftar’ time. We prayed jamaat namaz at the haram and quickly made our way for Iftaar in a special area in the haram. Here, we were treated as the personal guests of the Imam (as). It was an honour and privilege to be seated there and the food was mouth wateringly delicious.
After our yummy iftaar, we had food for the soul by Sheikh Khalfan who gave us a talk on the secrets of Ziyarat. We then had dua-e-iftitah at the haram. The atmosphere there was simply vibrant with energy and spirituality. It just made you feel like never leaving the place.
At around 10pm, the girls left the haram and headed for the Waterpark. We were all pretty excited and couldn’t wait to get started. However, little did we know that Iranian waterpark checking would be even stricter than airport checking. It took an hour and a half just to get through security and the fact that we couldn’t speak farsi did not help matters much!
Once we were in there, we had the time of our lives. The water rides were extremely fun and us girls could not stop laughing. It was exactly what we needed – a fun time to relax and chill.
By 2am, we began making our way out. Everyone seemed to have lost their voices and were exhausted. It was an amazing day full of fun packed action and yet it left us on a spiritual high.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Tayyaba Merali, Peterborough
There were two highlights to today. For me it was one thing, but for others it was something different. In the afternoon we were taken to the Haram to have a lecture by the head of International Affairs and also look around the museum. The museum was amazing! Seeing the previous zaris and doors that were used filled me with a sense of awe, and although we could not touch it, just seeing these artefacts was brilliant.
The highlight for the other girls was the waterpark! They came back with so many stories about all the rides and how much fun they’d had. Unfortunately I’d been ill the past few days and had to stay back, but all the girls could not stop talking about it!
The time they were gone, I sat and reflected on my time in Iran with one of the mentors and can honestly say this has been one of the most amazing experiences of my life and Inshallah I pray Imam Reza calls me back soon. I’m sad there’s only a few days left here till we leave, but I plan on making the most of every hour!
Day 15 – Sunday 7 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Leila Abdullah, Mombasa
Since the beginning of this course, all the days have been totally motivating, inspiring and amazing. Every aspect of this course – i.e. the classes, the trips and the ziyarats have been eye opening, spiritually uplifting and I am thankful for having been given the opportunity to attend this course.
There have been many things that happened on this trip from which I have taken lessons, however, I was truly humbled when Brother Shafi came into our class and apologised for having changed the day’s timetable. JUST A TIMETABLE! Subhanallah!
This is a very heavy deed and strange to me because I have never heard of anyone in my life apologise as he did (sincerely and repeatedly) for such a tiny issue. He together with the sponsors and organisers have done ALOT to make the camp successful and for the timetable, it was to be a tiny issue but how he acted really amazed me. May Allah (swt) grant him and all the organisers their hajaats inshAllah. This was a lesson to me (never ignore ‘petty’ issues) and I will always remember this.
That afternoon, we went to visit the graves of Nassir and Yassir, the brothers of Imam Ridha (as) and there we were given a talk by the Imam-e-Juma of the mosque. It was there where one of the mentors was interviewed by a journalist for a local Iranian News Agency. She told them more about The World Federation and the diverse group of participants that came from Canada, America, England, Tanzania, Kenya, Pakistan, Germany, Mauritius and Burundi to attend the course. Later we went to a nice restaurant for iftaar. It was a really special experience to be sitting on a roofless patio under the stars, with a warm breeze blowing, and the waiters serving us chilo chicken kebabs.
We ended the evening with a general question and answer session with Sheikh Khalfan. He answered every question that we had and left us with a lot to think about. Anisa Kanji, a mentor on the Madinah course, comments: ‘We all benefitted greatly from the general question and answer session with Sheikh Khalfan. We covered a variety of issues and our discussions left all of the girls with many things to ponder on and take away from the session. We all feel privileged to have been given an opportunity to sit with such a learned scholar!’
Every day on the course has been different, and it was a fruitful day, just like any other, Alhamdullilah! I have benefitted a lot from the course and I thank all of the organisers for their hard work.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Farhana Sahawon, Toronto
We had our classes as usual today and after lots of changes in the timetable, we were privileged enough to go and visit the graves of the 8th Imam’s brothers, Yasser and Nasser. It was a little far out of Mashhad and wasn’t as close as most things but since it was nearing the end of the trip, all the girls appreciated the time on the coach to talk and laugh and just generally have fun.
When we arrived at the rozas, we were given a talk by the alim who leads Juma Namaz there. We even had a class by Br. Ali Hemani about the 8th Imam while we were there! After leaving we ate at a really nice restaurant, and for the first time since reaching Iran, ate the most popular dish – Chelo Kebab!! It was a really nice experience to eat under an open roof and everyone left beaming!
After getting back we had our evening classes, and us Bab girls got to sleep while the Madinah girls went for a Q&A with Sheikh Khalfan. When coming back, they all had such good feedback and we had so many topics to talk and discuss.
Wow, only 4 days left and we’re all going to head our separate ways. It’s very saddening but Alhamdulillah it has been life-changing.
Day 16 – Monday 8 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sakina Abbas, Pickering
Our last full day in Mashhad was full of non-stop action. The day started with fajr jamaat namaz in the namaz khana near our apartments followed by a 30 minute yoga session led by Fatima Khimji and myself. After stretching their muscles, the girls went to sleep to re-energize before going to the bazaar of Imam Ridha (as) for last minute shopping!
It was a last minute panic getting those all important presents for family and friends at home, but we were all (well nearly all of us!) alhamdullilah back at our apartments for namaz time. We then had our last two lessons of the course. The lessons have been truly inspirational and we have all learnt a lot from the teachers through the various subjects that have been covered.
Anisa Kanji, mentor on the Madinah course, comments: ‘The teachers have put in a lot of time and hard work into preparing the lessons for the course. The participants have all learnt so much and go back to their homes with a lot to ponder and act upon. On behalf of all the girls, I would like to thank all of the teachers for their hard work and enthusiasm over the last two weeks.’
We ended the evening with a closing ceremony where I gave a speech on behalf of the Madinah and Baab ul Ilm girls. We surprised our teachers and mentors with gifts. After spending a couple of hours together reminiscing about the good times we had all shared in the past couple of weeks, we quickly rushed off to our rooms to pack our suitcases and head off to Imam Ridha (as)’s haram to say our final goodbye. The day concluded on a beautiful note – us offering our last fajr prayer under the stars in Imam Ridha (as)’s courtyard.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Zainab Alimohammed, Dar es Salaam
As fajr dawned I realised it was our last day in Mashhad, and my heart was filled with sadness at the thought of leaving the hospitality of my Imam Reza (AS). The city had felt like home and I did not want to leave! After fajr, we stayed for the last Yoga class which was excellent. Our teachers Fatima Khimji and Sakina Abbas were excellent! We then went to sleep for a few hours, before waking and rushing to buy last minute gifts at Imam Reza (AS) bazaar. I enjoyed the bargaining with different shop keepers and loved exploring what looked like an Aladdin’s cave!
We then went back to the apartments, had iftaar, namaz and then more lessons. I remember thinking and reflecting about how truly inspirational these lectures had been. We all thanked and hugged our lecturers! I would like to be a lecturer someday, and inshallah my quest for knowledge about my beautiful deen will continue after I go back home.
One of my fellow Bab students and also my roommate said, “I have learnt so much from the lectures. I have gained so much practical advice which I can go back home and use!”
At around 11:30 we headed to the lecture hall for one final time, for the closing ceremony. This was filled with lots of memories, laughter and of course traditional Iranian cake and sweets! It was emotional and lots of hugs and tears were shared between the sisters. We then went to pack, and then sat on the coach for our last Ziyarat to Imam Reza (AS).
As the haram approached for the final time, I could see the stars sparkling behind the dome and I felt my eyes tear up as it hit home that I was saying goodbye to my Imam (AS). The whole affair was so peaceful. Fajr and watching the sunrise over the dome, with the colour of the sky turning from red to purple was so incredibly beautiful. It was the most amazing thing I had seen. As I turned away from the haram, I prayed in my heart of hearts that I would be invited again next year.
Day 17 – Tuesday 9 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Zahra Remtulla, Birmingham
Today, we had our closing ceremony in the early hours of the morning as we all gathered to reflect over the last couple of weeks. The closing ceremony contained speeches from the girls’ and boys’ mentees, mentors, and a speech by Sheikh Khalfan.
The room was filled with laughter and cries as we all reminisce the special moments and experiences we shared together. We also wanted to take the opportunity to thank our teachers and mentors who have shared their knowledge and guided us. Specifically we would like to appreciate, Sr. Salma, Sr. Shomali, Sr. Batul Arastu, Sr. Naajiya, Sr. Sukaina, Sr. Zainab Arastu, Br. Ali Hemani and Sheikh Kumail. We also cannot forget our wonderful mentors: Anisa, Fatima K and Fatima R – they became like our older sisters and were always there for us. We also received our official certificates for completing the short course, recognized by the Islamic Republic of Iran!
After the ceremony had come to an end, we headed back to our apartments to do some last minute packing before we headed off to Tehran. A lot of us did not realize the capacity of our own suitcases as we tried to find space to fit everything inside.
One girl who will remain nameless narrates: ‘We literally had four people trying to close my suitcase - three people sitting on it and one person zipping it up!’
We proceeded to the 8th Imam’s haram for the last time. There were so many emotions running through my head wondering where all the time I spent here has gone and when I will be granted the opportunity to come back. We all did our final ziyarat and teary-eyed left the haram thanking Allah (swt) for granting us the opportunity to visit our 8th Imam and praying to Him to grant us the opportunity again, InshAllah.
Returning from the Haram we rested as we look forward to board our 12 hour train from Mashhad to Tehran.
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Tasneem Moloo, Mombasa
Everyone was very quiet as we returned home from Imam Reza (AS)’s haram. We looked around the city on the drive home, and I reminded myself how beautiful the city itself was with names of the Ahlulbayt (AS) even engraved on the mountains! Beautiful!
Once we were at the apartments, we did a quick check and clean of our rooms. One anonymous source quoted “The mentor’s room was the last to be cleaned out!”
After the craziness of piling ourselves AND our suitcases into the coach, we headed towards the train station. A fifteen hour train journey awaited us to take us to the city of Tehran. We recited Dua Faraj as we passed Masjid e Jamkaran. I felt such unity with all the other sisters!
Day 18 – Wednesday 10 August
Madinah al-Ilm
Sister Sukaina Jaffer, Toronto
We had a long but none the less eventful train journey from Mashhad to Tehran. Some cabins filled with stories about private individual struggles & spiritual journeys, some with Islamic charades and others filled with stories about namaz-e- Jaffer e Tayyar.
It was a beautiful scene both inside of the train and out. I remember seeing a chain of mountains overlooking yellow (dead) grass and a red sunset. Every now and then, I would see patches of green grass and trees, this would shock me to the point of tears. I wondered how something so beautiful could grow in such dry and hot conditions. It made me happy and I prayed for the moment to last forever. However, the sun did set and we soon found ourselves at the Musaffar Khana in Tehran.
I thought about how long I had spend on planning this trip and how it went by so quickly; how before we know it, we are living up the decisions we’ve made for ourselves. This trip was, by far, one of the best decisions I have made in a long time.
After wheeling our bags to the Mussafar Khana, we had lunch. Then it was off to the ziyarat of Shah Abdul Azeem, Tahir and Hamza. I reflected on these powerful personalities and what they had done in their lives to be revered so much.
Later on in the day, we went to see the Shuhada who had died in the Islamic Revolution. Many of us broke down and cried, as we saw the graves of the brave people of Iran who died for Islam. We sat on the grass and recited Surah Mulk to remember the dead. As I looked at the graves around me and plucked out the green blades of grass I was sitting on, I was reminded of the lecture given by Sheikh Abbas Ismail at the NASIMCO leadership retreat in which he said (and I paraphrase):
‘every blade of grass is important and yet every blade of grass is replenishable’.
I looked at the blades of grass in the garden of Iran and I smiled. These leaders inspired me to struggle in the way of my beliefs. My troubles seem to small now compared to theirs.
At night, we visited the Prison of Savak. The atrocities we witnessed there made the struggle of the people of Iran all the more real. Brother Ali Hemani left us with a question: ‘Do we struggle like this to maintain the religion of Islam?’
I remember being stuck in the toilet before we left. Thankfully, the mentor (Fatima) was able to kick down the door for me to leave. I remember being scared for a total of two minutes, I cannot imagine being so brutally tortured without mercy and surviving the stay in the prison for years.
I thought about the things I was passionate about – about my hijaab, about Bahrain, about my involvement in Thaqalayn, the JIY and the NASIMCO leadership retreat and reflected over my next steps as we begin our journey home...
Bab al-Ilm
Sister Tayyaba Merali, Peterborough
As we boarded the train, it was complete but laughable chaos of porters chasing anybody in chadar and insisting they carried our bags to the train. Iranian hospitality and manners are well renowned and now I understand why!
We had a really long journey but very fun. We saw the sun set over the mountains as the train speeded off, and we settled in to our cabins with a bit too much noise! The cabins were filled with laughter, stories and even ghost stories! We stopped off at fajr and prayed namaz outside the train. I really wish the west was as accommodating to our prayers! I love the way that in Iran the lifestyle is built around namaz, whereas we have to find time for namaz in our hectic schedules between work and family.
We woke up sleepy eyed, got off the train and boarded another coach for the Mussafir Khana. The Mussafir Khana was a new experience in itself, as the place welcomed us with its own guests – cockroaches! After much squealing we were off out again. We visited more ziyarats of the relatives of Imam Baqir (AS), Imam Reza (AS) and Imam Zainul Abideen (AS). I thought about how this may be my last ziyarat, and prayed hard as I could.
Later on, we went to Beheshte Zehra which was a graveyard of martyrs who had died in the Islamic Revolution. I remember crying so much as the story of a little boy, who had not moved out of a tanks way and the soldier had shot him dead. Heartless, I thought. I was astounded and visiting the graveyard really brought the tragedy of war to life. At home, on the BBC and CNN its another story, here it was thousands of life that each had a story to tell. We sat on a patch of grass and recited dua for the Shuhada.
Our journey was far from over, as we headed to see the shrine of the beloved Imam Khomeini. We recited the Ziyarat and left to go back on the coach. Sheikh Kumail understood the girls had had an exhausting day, and brought us all ice cream to cheer us up! We recited a loud salwaat for him!
At night, just after Maghrib we visited the Prison of Savak. I thought this was a normal prison where criminals were taken. I thought it was odd that they had gold plated the names of the prisoners. I thought to myself, that surely a prisoner was a criminal and didn’t deserve a plaque of honour. It was after I entered that I realised it was a torcher prison of freedom fighters that stood up for the revolution and for Imam Khomeini. I cannot even write and share how unspeakable and horrifying the torcher was and what an evil man Shah was. It gave me a lot to think about, and especially about the sacrifice people will make for freedom and for Islam.
I had so much to think about as we made our way back for dinner, and packing and goodbyes. What an unforgettable experience this whole trip has been. I will hold the memories and feelings in my heart forever.